Red & Blue Chameleon
Description
Where this colour comes from
Chameleon paints grew out of thin-film optics: multilayer flake pigments, developed from the late 1970s onwards, that work on the same principle as the colour-shifting security ink on banknotes. They reached production cars in 1996, on the 1,999 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra "Mystic" coupés. Fans of Japanese cars know them from Midnight Purple II and III on the Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 (1999–2000), built in runs of just 300 and 132 cars.
Why the base matters
The pigment is semi-transparent and produces colour by light interference, not by tinting. Over black, the light that passes through the film is absorbed and you see only the colour the pigment reflects, so the shift is at its strongest. Over a light base the effect looks washed out. The base must be smooth and glossy, because any texture shows through.
Application, step by step
- Primer. Clean, degreased surface, with the primer laid down smooth and free of texture. FSC287 Lacquer Primer Black already gives you a black ground.
- Gloss black base. FSC001 Black, FSC104 Black Gloss or FSC738 Black 2K. Black 2K needs 24 hours' drying before the chameleon goes on.
- Shake the bottle well. The pigment settles at the bottom; without shaking, the effect comes out weak.
- Airbrush. 0.2 to 0.4 mm needle, at 1 to 1.5 bar (15–22 PSI).
- Coats. 3 to 4 thin, cross-hatched coats, with 5 to 20 minutes between each. The first coat is barely visible; the effect builds coat by coat.
- Check under light. Between coats, turn the part under direct light and stop when you reach the intensity you want.
- Clear coat. Once dry, protect with a gloss, satin or matt clear coat. Gloss brings out the colour shift the most.
Working conditions
Temperature between 20 °C and 22 °C. Avoid cold or very humid environments, which affect the paint's performance. Touch-dry in about 10 minutes; fully cured in 24 hours.
Thinning and cleaning
No thinning required. If you need to thin it, use only Fire Scale Modeler thinner; white spirit, acrylic thinner and cellulose thinner are not suitable. Clean the airbrush with acetone.
What usually goes wrong
- Heavy coats: the pigment pools and the effect turns blotchy. Several thin coats work better than one thick one.
- Matt or textured base: the effect loses depth.
- Sanding the colour coat: it scratches the pigment. Make any correction in the clear coat.
Product photos are indicative. The full depth and colour shift only show on the painted, clear-coated part.